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Cutaway Posters

Sci-Pub Tech is back?

(Slink-away)

And....

And...

I already have every one of them. :guffaw:

BTW: www.intergalactictrading.com has the No Bloody A, B, C or D Enterprise, Enterprise-D, Enterprise-E, DS9 and Voyager cutaway posters available.
 
^Holey crap! I had no idea Intergalactictrading was still in business. I used to go to their concrete and mortar store back in the 80's before it closed! And they still list Longwood as their location!
 
sojourner said:
^Holey crap! I had no idea Intergalactictrading was still in business. I used to go to their concrete and mortar store back in the 80's before it closed! And they still list Longwood as their location!
Click to expand...

How do you think I feel? I lived in central Florida my whole life and never knew it existed until now, when I live on the other side of the country!
 
MatthiasRussell said:
sojourner said:
^Holey crap! I had no idea Intergalactictrading was still in business. I used to go to their concrete and mortar store back in the 80's before it closed! And they still list Longwood as their location!
Click to expand...

How do you think I feel? I lived in central Florida my whole life and never knew it existed until now, when I live on the other side of the country!
Click to expand...

Well, you knew about Sci-Fi City on Colonial, right? Formerly Enterprise 1701.

Odd that there'd be two big SF memorabilia stores right on top of each other. Wonder if it's more a Disney thing or a NASA thing that makes Orlando a good location.
 
Sci-Fi City was never as good as Enterprise 1701. The move/name change killed the store. On top of that, Enterprise was always the better store than Intergalactic.
 
Cary L. Brown said:
You guys do know that Sci-Pub-Tech is actually back in business again, right? (They shut down a while back, but seem to have returned).

http://www.scipubtech.net


They're really your only option today. Some of these are their own original work... some is derivative (and modified from the original) but still nice.
Click to expand...

I ordered the TOS and Voyager posters. Now if only they would republish the D and E posters.
 
Patrickivan said:
If the print itself isn't on acid free paper (it'll off gas- which is worse if it's a sealed frame), the acid free matte won't make much of a difference unless it's buffered (if not, you can buy a buffering agent from any conservation supply store and apply it yourself).
Click to expand...
Well, I bought the more expensive versions of the later prints (obviously not an option for the TMP print of course). They were all on "archival stock" which, I have to assume, is also acid-free.
And if the glass doesn't have UV inhibitors on it, you can buy UV inhibiting Mylar and affix that (static) to the glass.
Click to expand...
Ummm... here, I'm a bit confused. You do know that conventional glass is entirely UV-opaque, right? This is why you can't get a sunburn around your eyes when wearing actual glass sunglasses, but you can if you have cheapie plastic ones.

So, I'm not sure why I'd need UV-inhibitors (basically a treatment to block UV) on a material which is entirely UV-opaque.
If the frame is wood, make sure it's sealed, or it will off gas and contribute to the deterioration of the print.
Click to expand...
Very true, which is why I went with the anodized aluminum frame (that, and the frame just looks better IMHO).
If all the materials are inert, and your frame is sealed from atmospheric pollutants, then you're laughing- it'll last a long long time.
Click to expand...
Yep, I expect my posters to outlive ME... and as Kerr Avon once said, "I intent to live forever, or die trying."
 
I've got all the SciPubTech Trek cutaways. I also found fan-produced cutaway posters of the Oberth and Miranda/Avenger class ships which are very well done also.
 
Those are pretty nice, from what I can see... it would be really nice to be able to see at least a couple of "area close-ups" though... not the whole thing in HD but just a few small locations.

They list as being on "high quality poster stock" but I'd like to know more... what weight is the stock, and is it, as mentioned above, "achival quality" or "acid free" or whatever?
 
Cary L. Brown said:
Patrickivan said:
If the print itself isn't on acid free paper (it'll off gas- which is worse if it's a sealed frame), the acid free matte won't make much of a difference unless it's buffered (if not, you can buy a buffering agent from any conservation supply store and apply it yourself).
Click to expand...
Well, I bought the more expensive versions of the later prints (obviously not an option for the TMP print of course). They were all on "archival stock" which, I have to assume, is also acid-free.
And if the glass doesn't have UV inhibitors on it, you can buy UV inhibiting Mylar and affix that (static) to the glass.
Click to expand...
Ummm... here, I'm a bit confused. You do know that conventional glass is entirely UV-opaque, right? This is why you can't get a sunburn around your eyes when wearing actual glass sunglasses, but you can if you have cheapie plastic ones.

So, I'm not sure why I'd need UV-inhibitors (basically a treatment to block UV) on a material which is entirely UV-opaque.
If the frame is wood, make sure it's sealed, or it will off gas and contribute to the deterioration of the print.
Click to expand...
Very true, which is why I went with the anodized aluminum frame (that, and the frame just looks better IMHO).
If all the materials are inert, and your frame is sealed from atmospheric pollutants, then you're laughing- it'll last a long long time.
Click to expand...
Yep, I expect my posters to outlive ME... and as Kerr Avon once said, "I intent to live forever, or die trying."
Click to expand...

Sweet choice on the framing! And the backing material? I assume you used acid free/ buffered unbleached card stock? With the poster hinged to it with japanese kozo adhered with wheat starch paste (completely reversable)! Nothing but the best!

I also forgot to mention (for others- you seem to have your bases covered) that visible light causes a Cumulative fading on some materials, so keeping the light levels low will help too...

That said, I don't want to get too much into it here, but conventional glass (whatever that is) is NOT completely UV. It's not. 2 years of preventive conservation studies, 1.5 years of being an archivist, and many other years of experience in the field says otherwise.

And just a heads up for some information on preserving your material- here's a great source for people.
Ultraviolet Filtering

Ultraviolet radiation (UV) causes weakening and yellowing of paper and other organic materials. UV may also affect media, causing colours (dyes and pigments) to fade or change. Clear glass transmits over 90% of visible light and only cuts out UV below 300 nanometres (nm). Therefore, UV-absorbing filters are designed to cut out the UV component between about 300 and 400 nm. If UV levels in a museum or gallery are higher than 75 microwatts/lumen and if windows and lights do not have UV filters, it is recommended that glazing with a UV filter be used.
Until recently, clear picture framing glass was not available with UV filters. However, Tru Vue Conservation Glass and Conservation Reflection Glass with UV filters are now available. Plastics, such as Plexiglas UF-5, are also available with UV filters. However, none of these materials filter out all of the harmful UV.1,2 Therefore, it is recommended that these glazing materials be used in conjunction with appropriate ultraviolet and lux levels to slow deterioration of the artwork.
The following types of glazing have been tested at the Canadian Conservation Institute and are recommended as UV filtering materials.3​
Glass

Tru Vue Conservation Glass
Tru Vue Reflection Conservation
Glass "​

CCI Notes 11/3​

(and if you don't trust the Canadian Conservation Institute, then America's popular Northeast Document Conservation Center is a great source of information. CooL - Conservation On-line is another great one. There is a plethora of information accesible to the public looking to preserve their memorables). ​

​
 
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